Acqua Pazza (Closed in 2006)

I love simply prepared fresh fish; the salt-baked bass at Al Di La is always delectable, as are the whole fish at Esca, Teodora and Milos Estiatorio. However, I may have just encountered a dish that blows all others out of the (ahem) water!

Acqua pazza, the signature dish of the eponymous eatery, is a whole fish baked a bath of seawater, Sicilian sea salt, white wine and cherry tomatoes, and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. The saltwater preparation renders the fish absolutely moist and flavorful. According to proprietor Umberto Arpaia, acqua pazza, or "crazy water", is the creation of Neapolitan fishermen who wanted to make sure they had something tasty to eat in case they were stranded in rough seas. Before setting out on a journey, they would stock up on olive oil and cherry tomatoes. Necessity is thus the mother of perfection! Today's fish was sea bass, which was accompanied by a small plate of chard and potatoes. Other fish on the menu include salmon, swordfish and grilled yellowfin tuna with balsamic vinegar.

My companion and I began our meal by dipping our warm crusty bread into the white bean scallion spread, then dug into bowls of sedanini. These were ribbed tubes of pasta interspersed with basil, plum tomatoes, and eggplant, and topped with zesty salted ricotta. (On my next visit, I will have to try the intriguing tagliolini al caffe: espresso noodles with white shrimp and porcini mushrooms.)

After the afore-mentioned sea bass and a chicken paillard with mozzarella and tomato, a small plate of homemade cookies made their appearance. The sugar-dusted pistachio biscotti and small chocolate-dipped butter cookies were perfect with coffee, but we went the extra mile and ordered zuccotto, a dome of chocolate mousse with caramel and passionfruit coulis. Maybe next time we'll sample the baba (sponge cake) with a choice of Haitian, Anguillan or Puerto Rican rum, or the sinfonia, a trio of chocolate sorbet, flourless chocolate cake, and rich dark chocolate mousse. One thing is certain; I am now a perfect sailing companion, as my meal at Acqua Pazza has transformed me into a human flotation pillow.

Acqua Pazza: 36 W. 52nd St., (212) 582-6900.